Eiger Südwand - neue Route

This line on the first tower of the Mittellegigrat offers adventurous climbing in mostly top rock quality. There are 15 pitches, all of which are around 50 meters long. The last pitch up the tower and the 5 or so pitches directly to the left of the steep pillar are the most difficult. All other pitches are classified in difficulty levels 4a-5c.

There is one M8 bolt per belay. On the last pitch I ran out of bolts and had to improvise an intermediate belay. (Sling on a tied-off bolt) So I needed another M8 bolt for the repetition on the last 6a+ pitch. However, with a little experience, the last pitch can also be well secured with totem cams and pecker bolts.

Have fun in this impressive glacier landscape.

Attention!

30' from Eismeer station, clarify the conditions at the Mittellegi hut, whether the exit from Eismeer station is objectively safe enough!