Merci la Vie (FFA)

Swiss professional alpinist Roger Schäli scores first free ascent of the difficult multi-pitch climb Merci la Vie on the Eiger’s north face

About a year ago Roger Schäli opened a new, difficult route on the Geneva Pillar on the north face of the Eiger with Nina Caprez and Belgian climber Sean Villanueva: Merci la Vie. The route has been a ten-year project of Roger Schäli’s that pulls to the left of the route Deep Blue Sea and continues through the left, central part of the Geneva Pillar.

Nina Caprez and Sean Villanueva joined Roger Schäli in the summer of 2019 to finish setting his project. The three of them had to postpone a redpoint ascent to the 2020 climbing season.

Originally Roger Schäli planned the redpoint ascent together with Nina and Sean. However, Nina was in Rätikon with Cédric Lachat at the beginning of the season and Sean was also busy. So, Roger made some first attempts in the climb with other rope partners like Anne-Gita Scheibler, Mario Heller, and Fred Thyler. He was surprised at the progress he was making and he redpointed the route a few weeks ago.

"I’m overwhelmed that I was able to score the first free ascent of the route Merci la Vie on the Eiger’s north face."