Book Publi­cation

Legendary routes then and now. The book combines the narration of the Golden Age on the Eiger with the contemporary activities of Roger Schäli.

The most spectacular climbing successes of Roger Schäli are the first free ascent of the John-Harlin-Route (Winter Direttissima) and the Japanese Route (Summer Direttissima), the first free ascent of the most difficult route in the north face of the Eiger to date “Odysee,” the first free ascent of the free climbing route “Magic Mushroom” and the second fastest team ascent of the classic Heckmair Route in under 4,5 hours.

The book combines the narration of the Golden Age on the Eiger  (1966-1991: John-Harlin-Route, Japanese Route, Czech Pillar, Piola-Ghilini, Jeff Lowe ...) with the contemporary activities of Roger Schäli: crossing boundaries, drama, and triumph. Month-long north face expeditions, breathtaking free climbing routes, and groundbreaking solo efforts. A one-of-a-kind combination of personal experiences, historical reports, and portraits. Exciting like a thriller, informative like a textbook.

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